The Enchanted Tower

Pockets Full O' Fun

"The Biggest Holds You Will Ever Fall Off Of"

A Climbers Guidebook to the Enchanted Tower, Datil, New Mexico by Eric Fazio-Rhicard & Guy Agee

This is the most recent and only up to date guidebook of the area. The book is 20 pages with color photos and black and white topos.

Access via Private Property

 

From the east, take highway 60 from the town of Socorro, NM. Travel 65 miles west to the town of Datil. Continue on highway 60 for 5.3 miles (.9 miles past mile marker 73) and turn right on the dirt road to the north.

From the west, take highway 60 from the Arizona border towards Datil. Turn left on the dirt road .1 mile past mile marker 72.

Once on the dirt road reset your odometer. Stop and READ the landowner sign just past the cattle guard concerning travel through the private property. Once you have read and understand the rules, proceed .7 miles to the next cattle guard and veer left .1 mile to the locked gate. Continue though the locked gate (See below on how to get the combination) to mile 2.0 and you will be in view of the Tower. At mile 2.7, you will be in front of the Tower.

 

 Combination

  Having the combination to the locked gate is a privilege. It is for your use and for other climbers. Do not give the combination to just anybody. This privilege can be taken away.

You can get the combination by contacting the following:

The Ranch Manager, or through purchasing this book.

To Purchase

 To Purchase

 

To Purchase this guidebook, please pay through Image for faster service. Cost is $10.99 plus $2.00 Shipping.

Please pay to this email address: klimberguy@gmail.com

You can also order by phone at:

800 326-7452 ask for Eric or Elisa

 

 

Image

 

 

Below is a list of the Climbing Areas:

The Enchanted Tower

 

Mother Goose Wall

This area is approximately 50 yards up canyon from the Pogue’s cave area.

An excellent area for beginning climbers. Stick clip the first bolts if these climbs are at your limit.

There are several boulder problems in this area, feel free to explore.

This wall faces west and is shaded in the morning.

Classic Climbs include: Mother Goose

 

Pogue’s Cave Area

Above the 3rd large camping area past the tower is a prominent wall with a cave area to it‘s right.

This is the Pogue’s Cave area. Climbs 1 through 5 are located on the tall left face. Climbs 6 through10 are on the front face. The remainder are located in the cave and alcove.

This wall faces west and northwest and is shaded in the morning.

Classic Climbs include: Ooey Gooey

 

Midnight Pumpkin Wall

Located left of Captain Hook Area

This wall faces west and is shaded in the morning.

Classic Climbs include: Midnight Pumpkin

 

Captain Hook Area

This area is located above the Ugly Duckling Area.

This wall faces west and is shaded in the morning.

Classic Climbs include: Peter Pan Flies Again

 

Ugly Duckling Area

Separate boulder below Captain Hook and left of Sleeping Beauty Area.

This wall faces south and is sunny all day.

Classic Climbs include: Ugly Duckling

 

Sleeping Beauty Area

This is the flat slightly overhanging wall left of the Tower

This wall faces west and is shaded in the morning.

Classic Climbs include: Sleeping Beauty, Tarred and Feathered

 

THE TOWER

The prominent ship’s prow formation.

This is IT! Climbs range from 60 to 110 feet of overhanging rock.

The largest handholds you will ever fall off of!

All of the routes are Mega Classics!

 

Left Side

This wall faces northwest and is shaded most of the day.

Classic Climbs include: Technowitch, Jabberwocky, and Rumplestiltskin

Front Side

Many of the routes on this face get morning shade.

The routes just right of the arete get sun early.

Classic Climbs include: Mad Hatter, Goliath

Right Side

This wall faces southeast and gets morning sun.

Classic Climbs include: Shipwrecked, Golden Stairs

 

Rapunzel’s Wall

The area immediately above and right of the Tower

This wall faces west and is shaded in the morning.

Classic Climbs include: Fee Fi Fo Fum

 

Frog Prince formation

The tall formation 50 yards right of the Tower

(left side)

This wall faces north and is shaded most of the day.

Classic Climbs include: Blind Man’s Bluff

(front face)

Super Steep Face

This wall faces west and is shaded in the morning.

Classic Climbs include: Through the Looking Glass and Frog Prince (Babies)

 

The Giant’s Molars

This area is across the side canyon right of the Frog Prince

 

Renaissance Wall

The Renaissance Wall is located .5 miles past the Tower on the left side of the road.

Parking and camping can also be found at the base of this wall.

This wall faces south and is sunny all day.

Classic Climbs include: Child of Light

 

The Land Beyond

To find the Land Beyond, travel 1.8 miles past the Tower just .3 miles past the windmill.

The trail is on the left and parking / camping can be found on the right side of the road.

This climbing area is on the west side of the canyon, allowing it to warm earlier on cold days.

Classic Climbs include: Servant of the Secret Fire

 

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Links

 

The Enchanted Tower

Enchanted Tower Guidebook

Climbing at the Enchanted Tower

Climbing Datil, New Mexico